![]() These LED bulbs last 10x longer than incandescent and 4x longer than halogen bulbs. LED Dusk-to-Dawn Light Bulbs are equipped with a built in light sensor that turns your light bulbs on automatically when the sun goes down and turns the light off when the sun rises.Ģ. Non-dimmable not compatible with light dimmers.ġ. Keep the light switch on to provide electricity ģ. So you could potentially alter the lamp to be a motion sensor instead of dusk-to-dawn.Coolwhite GU10 Built in Photocell Light Sensor Led Bulbīuilt-in intelligent dusk to dawn light sensor, Automatically turns the light on when ambient lighting becomes insufficient.Įasy to install, simply screw it into a standard GU10 light socket and leave the light switch on to provide electricity perfect for front door, porch, courtyard, garage, offices, hospital, schools, factories, museum, shopping malls, supermarkets, restaurants etc.Ģ. They also make motion sensors in the "stalk" format. That way the photo-control continues to get power 24x7, and it keeps its "memory". If you are adding a photo-control near a switch - if possible put the switch downstream of the photo-control (i.e. ![]() However, by the second day, it had "gotten the rhythm" of what "light" and "dark" is in that location, and it worked properly. I wasn't surprised when the sensor turned the lights on in broad daylight. I've installed a sensor on a north-side porch, so sheltered I needed a flashlight to work. Modern photo sensors have a memory, and "Learn" the day-vs-night brightness in their location, over several days and nights. ![]() For instance, you could install it in an electrical box inside near a window. you can install it where convenient - as long as it has a good view of an area whose lighting changes dramatically day to night. Since the stalk-type can screw into any 1/2" knockout, such as that on the side of a junction box. Nothing says you need the photo-sensor to be at the lamp. Wire black to supply, red to the lamp's hot, and white with the lamp neutrals. ![]() So if your fixtures have this type of 2-wire photo-detector, you can pull down the unit, unscrew the old sensor, and screw in a 3-wire type. They thread into a 1/2" trade size hole widely used in electrical boxes. It is replaceable, in the sense that it can be unscrewed from the fixture and replaced. This is a "stalk type" photo-control, and they are commodity items. If you look at most of the consumer grade photo-lights, you'll see a component that looks like this. The socket rotates, and the detector window should be aimed to the north. It's commonly found on street lights, HPS, mercury or MH barn lights, and their LED replacements. This "puck type" is a replaceable photo control which sits typically on top of the light. The same issue exists with dimmers, so "dimmable" can help.Īnother option is to rewire your fixture to use a 3-wire type. These control circuits may, or may not play well with 2-wire photo-controls, and may be designed specifically to do so. All need a special control circuit to keep current from being excessive. (this is also true of any arc discharge light, including LPS, HPS, mercury, MH, or neon). LEDs are high resistance until they light. This is a 2-wire photo-control.Ī raw fluorescent bulb is infinite resistance until the lamp strikes its arc. This won't have any effect on an incandescent bulb. ![]() Incandescent bulbs have an interesting property: when they're not burning, they have very low resistance, and will flow current freely (this is called "inrush current"), That means if you're designing a photo-control, it's possible to skip the neutral wire, and have the photo-control power itself by leaking power through the bulb when it's off. It switches power to the lamp via the red wire. The photo-control powers itself 24x7 via the black and white wires. A perfect photo-control has 3 functioning wires: Always-hot (black), neutral (white), and "switched-hot" (red). ![]()
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